On the road to Bamiyan, the rugged, snow-dappled mountains of the Hindu Kush give way to bucolic scenes in the valley below. Caves, hewn into the cliffside, where Buddhist monks once retreated to mediate, resemble honeycomb when viewed from a distance. In the central highlands of Afghanistan, Bamiyan province boasts a rich cultural heritage and an array of archeological wonders. Cradled between the Hindu Kush and its western foothills, the Koh-e-Baba, the Bamiyan valley is the cultural center of the Hazara people, Afghanistan’s third-largest ethnic group and Shi’a minority. Roughly 240 kilometers west of Kabul, Bamiyan city sits at lofty 2,550 meters above sea level, deserving its moniker, “roof of the world” or “place of shining light.”

The Silk Road, an ancient network of trade routes, once linked civilizations from East Asia to the Mediterranean basin. At its height, Afghanistan served as a significant crossroads, perfectly positioned between eastern and western markets. As a result, Afghanistan’s trading outposts became a vibrant hub of cultural, religious, and political exchange. This exchange saw the expansion of Buddhism into Afghanistan and Bamiyan city became home to a thriving monastic community reaching its zenith in the 6th century. It was during this period the famed Buddhas, Salsal and Shahmama, were carved into the cliffs which surround the city.

Measuring fifty-five and thirty-eight meters high respectively, the two Buddhas were worshipped by the monks and later became a source of pride for the Hazara people. For more than 1,500 years, the Buddhas remained sentinels of the valley, until they were demolished by the Taliban in 2001. In their absence, empty niches now loom over Bamiyan city, a reminder of the fragility of cultural heritage sites caught in the crossfire of conflict. Decades of intermittent war have taken their toll on Afghanistan’s archeological landscape. Many sites have sustained damage or been destroyed. Even so, the caves which dot the cliffside remain intact and, in recent years, shelter poverty-stricken Afghans who cannot afford traditional housing.

Agriculture and livestock dominate Bamiyan’s regional economy. Known for its potato production, farmers harvest more than 300,000 tons annually. However, armed conflict, economic upheaval, and drought threaten the livelihoods of Afghans who depend on good yields. In addition to potatoes, Bamiyan is known for its apples and dairy products, which are purchased from small-scale farms and exported to neighboring Pakistan and Tajikistan. A lesser-known gem of Bamiyan city is Bazarcha-e-Hunar (little city of art), a bazaar run entirely by female shopkeepers who sell handicrafts and jewelry.

Seventy-five kilometers west of the city lies Band-e-Amir, Afghanistan’s first national park. A cluster of six lakes, brilliant blue, sit in stark contrast to the monotonous desert that surrounds them. Band-e-Amir roughly translates to Commander’s Dam in Dari, a reference to Ali, the fourth Islamic caliph whom locals believe created the dams through a series of miracles.

In truth, the origin of Band-e-Amir’s formation is more geology than legend. The lakes formed when water escaped through cracks in the rocky landscape and, over time, deposited layers of hardened mineral, known as travertine, to form walls that now dam the water. The breathtaking, lapis lazuli lakes located in a relatively conflict-free region make Band-e-Amir a popular tourist destination among both locals and foreigners. In the warmer months, colorful recreational paddle boats resembling swans glide across the surface of the sapphire waters. For a moment, the ravages of war can be forgotten.

The Place of Shining Light

Makers and Wearers

Threads of Beauty Amid Hardship