Pioneer, Provocateur: Reflections on the Life of Afghan Designer Safia Tarzi

In the 1960s and 70s, Afghanistan's social landscape was rapidly evolving, and Kabul in particular became known for its budding cosmopolitan flair. The city boasted modernist architecture, art exhibitions, theaters, and was a popular stop along the Hippie Trail, an overlanding route stretching from Europe to South East Asia that attracted adventure travelers from around the world. During this period, Kabul was frequented by international diplomats, tourists, and artists, earning the moniker the “Paris of Central Asia.” 

Against the backdrop of then-President Mohammad Daoud Khan’s progressive social reforms, the country’s elite were embracing European fashion, and women’s roles were slowly shifting, especially in urban centers. With her exceptional design sense and understanding of global fashion trends, one designer significantly contributed to this transformation—Safia Tarzi. 

Within this singular moment of cultural openness and modernization, Tarzi rose to prominence. Her designs became known for their distinctive blend of traditional Afghan motifs with Western-style silhouettes. She utilized local fabrics and embroidery techniques, often incorporating traditional Afghan design elements such as intricate floral patterns, tribal details and drew inspiration from regional influences in Persian and Central Asia.

Tarzi’s designs were a reinterpretation of Afghan heritage, infusing traditional styles with a modern sensibility. In doing so, she not only reimagined Afghan fashion, but made a conscious effort to preserve and promote the country’s cultural identity at a time when it was being influenced by external forces.

Her attempts to intertwine traditional and contemporary aesthetics brought global attention to Afghan craftsmanship. And in December 1969, Vogue magazine published an issue entitled “Afghan Adventure,” spotlighting her work in a feature story.

Not much is known of Tarzi herself. But like her work, she embodied playful polarity, wearing feminized turbans instead of the typical hijab, and waistcoats with contemporary silhouettes—transcending conventional roles and inhabiting the space where the boundaries between masculine and feminine blurred.

Although she was not overtly political, Tarzi’s role in the fashion space indirectly supported the empowerment of Afghan women. Through her creations, she showed that Afghan women could embrace global trends without compromising their cultural identity. 

The political upheaval that began in the 1970s, which culminated in the Soviet invasion of 1979 and the subsequent rise of the Taliban, had a substantial impact on Afghanistan's cultural and artistic scenes. Many elements of the country’s cultural life, including fashion, were stifled. Women’s rights were rolled back, and conservative dress became mandatory in many parts of the country. 

Like many artists’ during this time, Tarzi’s work faced challenges, and it’s unclear what became of her career during these turbulent years. Some believe she left Afghanistan as the country experienced political instability, though there is limited information on her life after the 1970s.

Safia Tarzi’s and her impact on contemporary fashion still resonates today. Intricately embroidered waistcoats, one of Tarzi’s signature styles, are still being reinterpreted by designers, with both artisanal brands and mainstream labels incorporating them into their collections. Half a century later, her designs remain a reflection of the dynamic cultural and social changes that swept through Afghanistan in the mid-20th century.